A Little Slice of Paradise in the Italian Riviera: Portofino, Liguria

by Victoria Boyd · August 4, 2015

Hiking, biking, swimming, sun tanning, or touring historical gems. How would you like to spend a day at the seaside in Italy?

Portofino, Italian Riviera, Liguria, Italy. Credit: Victoria Boyd.

The Italian Riviera

The Italian Riviera of Liguria stretches 300 kilometres along the Northern shore of the Mediterranean Sea. The city of Genoa marks the center of the Riviera and divides the coastline between the Riviera di Ponente (the Western shore) and Riviera di Levante (the Eastern shore). The Riviera di Ponente is known for its long sandy beaches stretching towards France, while the Riviera di Levante is famous for its small, rocky inlets tucked beneath quaint seaside villages.

Coastline of the Italian Riviera, direction North-East. Credit: Victoria Boyd.

Just a short train ride from Genoa, each town in Liguria boasts an array of attractions: beaches for sun tanning and relaxing, trails for hiking and cycling, and inimitable castles and abbeys for immersing oneself in history and culture.

A day at the seaside: Portofino

Founded by the Romans, Portofino was originally named Portus Delphini, meaning Port of the Dolphins, because of the high population of dolphins that once inhabited the area.

Rent a boat or join a tour to experience Portofino from a mariner’s perspective. Credit: Victoria Boyd.

Over the course of its history, Portofino established itself as a vibrant fishing village. By the late 19th century, England and Northern Europe’s elite began visiting the village during the summers; visitors fell in love with the warm Italian sun and the half-moon shaped string of houses edging the blue harbour. Portofino soon transformed from a tiny fishing village into a fashionable tourist destination.

Contrast between Portofino’s old fishermen’s houses and expansive villas. Credit: Victoria Boyd.

Although Portofino is now one of Italy’s most expensive and exclusive seaside towns, those travelling on a budget should not be discouraged. Avoid luxury hotels by making a day trip from Genoa or the neighbouring town of Santa Margherita Ligure. Dodge pricey restaurants by enjoying a picnic lunch on the beach.

Portofino’s intriguing attractions

Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour, Brown Castle has protected Portofino from unwanted intruders since the 15th century. The castle can be reached by climbing the path that leads from the Botanical Gardens.

Castle Brown on top of a wooded hill, overlooking the harbour. Credit: Cristiano Berta.

Extend your hike to the castle by continuing to the Church of St. George. It too overlooks the village and offers breathtaking views of the wide Mediterranean sea on the other side of the inlet.

Portofino from above. Credit: Cristiano Berta.

On the other side of the mountainous peninsula, accessible by foot or boat only, is the Abbey of San Fruttuoso. The abbey, built in the 11th century, is nestled along the edge of a beach amongst pine and olive trees. Over the years, more and more sand has been pushed onto the beach by the sea, partially burying the structure’s facade. The abbey is also home to the burial vaults of the aristocratic Doria family of Genoa.

Beneath the sea near San Fruttuoso is a large bronze statue called Christ of the Abyss. The statue was placed 17 metres underwater in 1954 in memory of Dario Gonzatti, the first Italian to use SCUBA gear. Although the statue has been partially replaced because of corrosion, it remains a renowned destination for divers around the world.

The Bay of Paraggi, a short walk from Portofino in the direction of Santa Margherita, offers a sunny beach to relax after a day of exploring. But be prepared, many of the nicer sections of the beach are privately owned and it’s mandatory to rent an umbrella and lawn chair for several euros.

View on the walk from Portofino to the Bay of Paraggi. Credit: Victoria Boyd.

Directions

Train tickets to Genoa from any major city in Italy are fairly inexpensive. Once in Genoa, catch a half hour train to Santa Margherita Ligure and then hop on a local bus direct to Portofino.

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Victoria Boyd

After living in three countries and travelling to sixteen, Victoria is continuing to feed her travel addiction by exploring Europe's incredible cultural and historical diversity as much as she possibly can. Vic enjoys capturing and sharing her adventures through writing, photography, and videography.