48 Hours In: Banff, Alberta

Banff National Park. Credit: Caitlin Boros
It began as an accident, a fated stumbling across what would become the birthplace of Canada’s first national park. In the fall of 1882, three unassuming Canadian Pacific Railway workers discovered (and nearly tumbled into) what is now known as the Cave and Basin Hot Springs in Banff, Alberta. Though Aboriginal peoples of the area had known of the springs—which they believed to be sacred healing waters—for centuries, the rail workers were the first outside visitors. The news caught the attention of the nation, and less than two years later Banff was declared a national park, the first in Canada and third in the world, quickly becoming a lucrative tourist destination. This was arguably the birthplace of the tourism industry in Canada.
While days, weeks or months could be spent exploring the 6,641 square kilometres of the park, those with a stricter schedule can still enjoy some of the best Banff has to offer. Just over an hour’s drive from downtown Calgary, the park is easily accessible to those visiting Alberta. If you only have a couple of days, here are a few great ideas for how to get the most out of one of Canada’s most historic and breathtaking sites.
See where it all started
The Cave and Basin site is the historic birthplace of Banff National Park, and is the lowest of nine sulphuric hot springs on Sulphur Mountain. Here you’ll find the cave of the first-discovered hot spring, as well as an attached learning centre that provides visitors with the opportunity to engage with the history and heritage of this important place. Two hiking trails allow visitors to further explore the area, including the basin and surrounding plants and wildlife.
Time Needed: 90 minutes
Price: $3.90 adults/$1.90 children & youth
See a preview of the site here.
Walk the Bow Falls trail
The Bow Falls are located at a bend where the Bow River meets the Spray River. The site is a notorious Hollywood spot, with several 1950s classic films depicting stars such as Marilyn Monroe and Robert Mitchum being swept over the falls. Today, several walking and biking trails wind through the area, offering visitors a close look at the powerful Bow Falls and a beautiful view of the meeting place of these two majestic rivers and the mountains that surround them.

The powerful Bow Falls empty into the meeting point of the Bow and Spray rivers. Credit: Caitlin Boros
Time Needed: 45 minutes
Board the Banff Gondola
Located on Sulphur Mountain, the Banff Gondola is a breathtaking way to see the panoramic mountain views that define the landscape here. Glide up the mountain, viewing the trails, trees, and wildlife below. At the top you’ll discover one of the world’s most incredible sites: the soaring peaks of the Canadian Rockies as far as the eye can see. Encircled by these rigid peaks, the summit of Sulphur Mountain is the perfect place to get a birds-eye glimpse of the town of Banff, the surrounding park, and the incredible geography of the area. A boardwalk trail offers the opportunity to trek along the ridge of the mountain, providing an even closer encounter with the majestic landscape.

The boardwalk atop sulphur mountain offers the best views of the neighbouring Canadian Rockies. Credit: Caitlin Boros
Time needed: 2.5-3 hours
Price: $39.99 adults/$19.99 children
Take a dip in the hot springs
At the end of a long day spent exploring the area by foot, there’s no better place to unwind than the Banff Upper Hot Springs. The spring, the hottest in the area at 37-40°C, contains sulphate, calcium and a blend of other minerals and gases that give it its calming, creamy crystal-blue colour. Soak up the waters’ reputed healing powers while gazing out at the surrounding magic of the mountainside.
Time needed: 45 minutes
Price: $7.30 adults/$6.30 youth
Swimsuit and towel rentals are available on site for $1.90 each.
Enjoy some tasty local eats
Banff is host to some of the country’s top restaurants. For breakfast or lunch, stop at the Wild Flour Bakery to pick up a variety of artisanal breads, pastries and sandwiches. You can either eat in or take a picnic lunch to go. For dinner, try one of Banff’s oldest and most beloved restaurants, Melissa’s, voted 7 years running as the best restaurant in Banff in the Calgary Herald Reader’s Choice Awards. Melissa’s Mountain Stew has hearty chunks of beef served in a slow-simmered red wine gravy – the perfect dish to help you refuel after a day of exploring. If you enjoy great food even more when it comes with a great view, head to Juniper Bistro for locally-inspired dishes and wall-to-wall windows that look onto one of the most renowned vistas in North America. If you’re lucky you may even spot some local residents: elk and coyotes.
Say farewell to the Three Sisters
When it’s time to depart, bid farewell to the Three Sisters, a trio of mountains named Faith, Charity, and Hope, and promise to come back soon. They’ll be waiting for you when you return.
See a full map of Banff National Park here.
For more information on how to book your trip to Banff, visit: www.TravelAlberta.com/Banff
This post was originally published on Anew Traveller on June 16 2015.


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